Why Veganuary is Killing My Restaurant: A Chef's Perspective (2026)

My beloved restaurant, the White Hart, is facing a challenging start to the year, and I fear it might not survive the Veganuary trend. As a critic-turned-restaurateur, I've learned that the hospitality industry is a delicate dance, and every decision, from menu choices to staffing, can impact our survival.

I wake up each night, eagerly awaiting George the Greek's WhatsApp update on our evening's takings. On New Year's Eve, we opened our doors at 5 pm, and the bar was buzzing until the stroke of midnight. While some sought refuge from the revelry with a glass of white Burgundy, most of the town's celebrants eventually gathered around the Christmas tree, leaving our establishment relatively quiet.

I made the decision to offer fries and pasties to soak up the espresso martinis, rather than our usual Italian fare. It was a strategic move, but one that left me questioning our profits. Our takings for the night, £2,256, were decent, but after factoring in costs, there wasn't much left.

The cold light of day revealed a different story. The water leak by the staircase, a problem the landlord promised to fix, will eat into our profits. Add to that the rising costs of running a business under this Labour government, and the picture becomes bleak.

And then there's January, with its own set of challenges. While the week starting January 5 looks promising, bookings drop off dramatically after that. It's a familiar post-Christmas lull, but this year, it's compounded by the rise of Dry January and Veganuary. These trends are like grim reapers for the hospitality industry.

Veganuary, in particular, poses a unique challenge. Preparing vegan dishes takes time and skill, and there's only so much one can charge for a turnip or a cauliflower steak. It's not a moral issue; it's a matter of margins. The time and effort required to create vegan dishes often don't translate into profitable sales.

As I navigate these challenges, I find myself admiring the genius of companies like Guinness, who've created alcohol-free versions of their drinks with healthy margins. It's a reminder that innovation and creativity are essential in this industry.

So, as we enter the heart of Veganuary, I make a plea: if you're indulging in this trend, bring along some meat-eaters and thirsty alcoholics to support your local restaurants. It's a delicate balance, and every customer counts.

This is the reality of running a restaurant, and it's a constant battle to stay afloat. But with your support, we can weather these challenges and keep the White Hart thriving.

And this is the part most people miss: it's not just about the food or the drinks; it's about the experience, the community, and the memories we create together. So, let's raise a glass (or a non-alcoholic alternative) to that!

Why Veganuary is Killing My Restaurant: A Chef's Perspective (2026)
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